“Dip-at-toe” 18th century

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“Dip-at-toe” 18th century
(Updated, 2018, May, Okt, Dec,
2019, Feb)

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First of all, a BIG thank you for the contributions of:

• sharprazorpalace/SRP (in alphabetically order): ajkenne, altus, charlie48horlogerie, inoe,
  rideon66, ScienceGuy, sharptonn, Thaeris, Mari, Martin103, Neil Miller (RIP), Voidmonster, and many others …

• Pascal MORIN (‘Lohar’)

• Acier Fondu

• monsieurvontiki.com

• ilrasoio.com

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In the article “Old Sheffield razors” written by “Henry T. Lummus”
(Henry Tilton Lummus (1876-1960), Associate Justice,
Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court 1923-1955),
we can read this statement (p. 263):

As seen on these razors (Razors A (1775; 1770-1785) & B (1780; 1770-1795)):

(A. Date 1775. Maker, George Smith & Sons, Sheffield, 1770-1785. Trademark, cross and “Smith”
B. Date 1780. Maker, John Shepherd, Sheffield, 1770-1795. Trademark, crown and “Wolf”)

•
The “Revolutionary time” of which “Henry T. Lummus” refers to is the
“American Revolutionary Period” (1764-1789)
•
With this article, I’d like to gather razors with such a dip in the spine at the toe
(which I like to call a “Dip-at-toe“), thereby confirming or contradicting the statement
that razors which such a “Dip-at-toe“ could be made around “1760 – 1790“
•
Important: 
Not every razor between 1760 – 1790 would necessarily
have a “dip-at-toe” IMHO, meaning, if a razor doesn’t have a  “dip-at-toe”,
it possibly still could be made around “1760 – 1790“!

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•

To make things clear, a “Dip-at-toe” is:

The (more or less) hollowing at the very end of the blade,
at the toe/tip, and this at the spine (back of the blade),
not at the edge (and not at the spine near the tang)

Like this:

•

The following examples will show that a large amount of “Dip-at-toe”
razors can indeed be placed between 1760-1790, though some razors with
a “Dip-at-toe” are definitely older than 1750. At this moment, no razor is
found with a “Dip-at-toe” that is younger than around 1790.

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First of all, with many thanks to ‘Pascal MORIN’ (‘Lohar’), a description
of the “Dip-at-toe”, by ‘Jean Jacques Perret‘, author of the famous work
“l’art du coutelier” 1771-’72“:

 

•

(*) The French have always made razors with a straight form, as represented
in Fig. ’11’, ’15’, ’16’. The English have always distinguished themselves by the
form/shape (“of their razors”). See Fig. ’30’: we see a hollow in ‘Q’, a bump/dent
in ‘X’, another hollow in ‘P’, all does neither good nor bad to the razor; and there
are many people of good taste to whom this form/shape does not please.
What is a defect for the French is that the heel of the English razor is too short;
necessarily the thumb must be pressed onto ‘T’: being directly on the cutting edge
at the risk of cutting the fingers; on the other hand the end of the heel ‘y’,
which they leave elongated, also wounds the fingers; nevertheless those who
prefer this form can easily be satisfied, all the more so since it consists only in
the manner of giving it this form/shape with the file.

• So, ‘Perret’ describes the “Dip-and-toe”as a typical feature on 18th C. English razors
• We see the shape of 18th C. French razors
• “the end of the heel ‘y'” = the end of tang or the tail, which presently we call
  a “stubtail” (on 18th & early 19th C. razors); apparently the French seemed to
  think it wounded the fingers, which is maybe why early French razors were
  made without tail (“No tail”)

Interestingly these razors of William Fox,
made between 1740-1769 don’t have a “Dip-at-toe”:

(leretourducoupechou.com/t1250-rasoirs-anglais-XVIII)
 
(Mr Morand – Livre “Le Rasoir Droit”)
While other razors, made by William Fox as well (1740-1769) do have such a “Dip-at-toe”:
Coincidentally the razors without “Dip-at-toe” were found in France. Together with
the fact that the French (‘Jean Jacques Perret‘, “l’art du coutelier” 1771-’72“) at that time generally were not in favor for the “Dip-at-toe” shape, I wonder if William Fox (and maybe others) made razors without “Dip-at-toe”, specifically for the French market…

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Examples of razors on alphabetical order:

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B

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Birks, Henry 

(Updated, 2018, Dec)

(= statement contradicted, razors with
a “Dip-at-toe” can be older then 1760)

“With many thanks to “Dr Joan Unwin, Archivist,
The Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire”

“Henry Birks, listed as a cutler, in 1720”(Birks (“Tobacco Pipe” mark)

Henry Birks could make razors, with this mark, between 1720-1752
In addition, the mark was only used by Henry Birks
(Birks (“Tobacco Pipe” mark)

•
A couple of razors, made by “Henry Birks, F1720”

(ilrasoio.com)

•

•
(Private collection)
(“Birks” is very clearly visible, “Henry” is not clear though)

•
(Private collection)

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Bramall, John, Storrs (= statement confirmed)
(Bramall, Brammall, Bramhall)

(“Acier Fondu”)
•

(very slight “Dip-at-toe)
•

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

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Brittain Wilkinson & Brownell (= statement confirmed)

(private collection)
•

(“Acier Fondu”)
•

Brittain Wilkinson & Brownell, Sheffield (c1780-1840),
Sheffield, trademark ‘France’ (Goins’)

Due to its shape (no “shoulder”), this one is absolutely without a doubt
an 18th century razor, most possible around 1780-1790’s

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E

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Elliot, George (?) – IN LONDON
(not confirmed or contradicted)

(private collection)
 

•

(“Acier Fondu”)

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F

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Fox, John – *P (later a mark of Norris, Samuel)
(could be made before 1760 though!)

(private collection) •
(private collection) 
•
 
(monsieurvontiki.com)
•
“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

“Bailey’s”, 1781

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

•
Fox and Norris were: Fox, John (1714-1793, F1735 or 1737),
Samuel Norris (1745-1817, F1767), and maybe
1 or 2 Fox brothers (William/Stephen)
•
Samuel Norris inherited the *P mark of John Fox, after 1793.
•
The razors of John Fox are therefore between 1735/1737-1793,
IMHO made around 1750-1770.
•
The *P mark, when used by Samuel Norris, changed:


The first is definitely younger then 1800, thus being a Samuel Norris razor.
The lines of the “P” is straighter then the old “P”.
I believe it is possible that the rounder “P” is from John Fox.

→ Also see “Norris, Samuel”

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H

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Harwood

“Harwood – Warranted”
(sharprazorpalace.com 1, sharprazorpalace.com 2)
The Universal British Directory Vol. 4 (published between 1795-’98), lists Harwood & Co. Sheffield. Harwood is not listed in 1774 Sketchley’s, 1881 Bailey’s or 1787 Gales & Martin Directories.
This razor could therefore be made between 1787 & 1795-’98.
This just could fall in the time period of the “Dip-at-toe” (<1790).

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J

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Justice, Joseph
‘IN PARIS’

(Update 2018, May)

(sharprazorpalace.com/razor-clubs/Stub-tailed shavers)
(“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774, Justice Joseph, Churchlane)

(No mentioning in the “Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787,
neither in ‘Bailey’s Directory’, 1781)

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L

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 Leadbeater, John
‘ITALY’

( SRP, Razor clubs, “Dip-at-toe” Stubtails 18th century)

“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

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Lindley, John
‘Tobacco Pipe & …’

(SRP/That 1700’s Show)

or turned up side down:

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

(Lindley John, Spring-street)

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Linley/Lindley, William/(John) (or … ?)
(Not confirmed or contradicted)

(“Acier Fondu”)
•


(ilrasoio.com)
•
(private collection) 

“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774
Sadly the direction is different…
We also know that the mark:

belonged in 1698 to one “Bradshaw” …

A Thomas Linley sold the mark to George Johnson in 1842, passing it
on to his son who sold it to Lambert in 1887 (with a period that the
mark also belonged to George Wostenholm, 1865)

But to who belonged this trademark in the period between? …
SRP/”Dip-at-toe” stubtails 18th century

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N

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Norris, Samuel
‘ S:NORRIS ‘, later ‘ *P ‘

“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

“Bailey’s”, 1781

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

Samuel Norris (1745-1817, F1767), after 1793/1795 he used the mark *P,
therefore this razor is made between 1767-1793.

→ Also see “Fox, John”

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P

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Parker, Stephen
‘ *TURK ‘

(Update 2018, May)

(sharprazorpalace.com/razor-clubs/Stub-tailed shavers)
(“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774, Parker Stephen, Scotland(-street))

(No mentioning in the “Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787,
neither in ‘Bailey’s Directory’, 1781)

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Pryor, Michael

 ( PRYOR)

The first razor, being an early razor from Pryor Michael

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

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R

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REVIL, George

No.1 (private collection)   REVIL

No.2                                       G·REVIL
 
(SRP/That 1700’s Show)

These razors were made between 1744-1790,
probably between 1760-1790 ( → see article Revil George)

Possibly this is an “earlier” razor, around 1790…
(no “Dip-at-toe”, younger tail (more round and shorter))

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Rowland, Ann

(private collection)
 
•  
• 
•

•

(SRP/Help datation Fox razor, note the resemblance of the scales,
the style is very alike the one of the “Fox, John” razor)
•

(Update ’18, Okt)

A special one:
The (smaller) mark is placed differently,
I think it is possible this razor has lost his tip (not sure though).
The notch above the tang is preserved while the underside of
the tang is most probably altered due to lots of hone wear.

•
Rowland Ann, Westbargreen, is found in “Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

Rowland Ann, or the mark “RSPAIN” isn’t found anymore in
“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787. We can therefore deduce that
these razors are made before 1787, most probably before 1774
(because of the stamp “B:Robinson” on the spine)
(SRP Seeking knowledge)

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Rowland, Elizabeth

(“Acier Fondu”)

“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

Although the crescent “1774” seems to be reversed, it is very likely the same maker.
•
This razor is made around 1770-1790, maybe a bit earlier.

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S

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SAUNDERSON WILLIAM
☩SHIP

(Update 2019, Feb)

Thank you ScienceGuy! (“Acier Fondu”)On the scales, which aren’t the original ones, was written “1749”.
The pivot hole has been altered, also below the tang there are signs of
restoration & regrinding. The “Dip-at-toe” is original though! It is
confirmed through Joan Unwin at the Cutlers Company that the maker
is “William Saunderson”, his mark “☩SHIP” is registered in 1736, which
was passed through (presumably at his death or old age) to his son in
law “George Holdsworth” in 1760. This razor (see stamp on the spine) is
made by “William Saunderson”, no doubt between 1736-1760.

The hint “1749” on the scales pushes the date of production towards the 1740’s!

The style of “Dip-at-toe” with a more downwards angle is actually an
“Ancient Dip-at-toe” (see further).

This razor would be a confirmation that the “Ancient Dip-at-toe”
is more likely made before the 1760’s.

Comparing this razor with some other ones with a pronounced longer
tail (see further), and seeing this tail was broken and altered, it
probably had a longer tail in the beginning.

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SHEPHERD/SHEPPARD, John

(SRP/That 1700’s Show, rideon66)
•

(SRP/That 1700’s Show, Mari)

The second razor has obviously been seriously reground, I wouldn’t be
surprised a piece of steel had been removed at the front as well

“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

(Sheppard John, Brown Cow, Redcroft)
“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

(Shepherd John, Holles Croft)

At the moment it is not clear if Shepherd John & Sheppard John
are one and the same person (most probably are)

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SMITH, George
☩SMITH
(could be made before 1760 though!)

(private collection)

(“GEO. SMITH MAKER” = “George Smith”)
•
 
(“GEO. SMITH MAKER” = “George Smith”)
•

•
From the article “Old Sheffield razors” (by “Henry T. Lummus”):
(A. Date 1775. Maker, George Smith & Sons, Sheffield, 1770-1785.
Trademark, cross and “Smith”)

•
These 3 razors have the same trademark:
(“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774)

(“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787)

•
Thomas Smith, son of George Smith,
inherited the trademark of his father.
(Smith (“☩SMITH”))

•

Since:

• the article “Old Sheffield razors”, states that “George Smith & sons”
  operated between 1770 – 1785
• there is written “GEO. SMITH MAKER”, and NOT “George Smith & sons“
• the given data in the article Smith (“+SMITH”),

we can deduce that the first 2 razors are made after 1734,
but BEFORE 1770, probably around 1750-1770

•

The third razor is from around 1775, which, together with the first 2 razors,
fit the timeframe of the statement!

•
A special “George SMITH”

(SRP, Special razor 18th century George Smith)
The mark “SMITH” and the stamps on the spine” GEO. SMITH MAKER” makes clear
this is a “George SMITH”.  The “+” above “SMITH” is merely a hint. This razor is made
by George Smith (F1734, Master Cutler 1749, presumably died 1785), father of Thomas
Smith (F1763, who acquired the mark “+ SMITH” from his father (after his death) and
used it further along (Gales & Martin Directory Sheffield 1787,…)), it could very well
be made around 1760 – 1770. The special thing on this razor is the special shape!
Besides the “Dip-at-toe”, it has a distinct transition between edge and tang,
something that is thought to be done from the early 1800’s, not before 1770.
Also, the tang has a non-typical shape, it becomes very narrow towards the
beginning of the edge! The razor still has got its original scales and iron collars.

This razor is a re-grind, which explains the fading of the “Geo.” stamp on the spine,
and the fading of the “+” mark, maybe some metal was also removed of the spine

In that case, in the beginning, it would have been more like this:

Comparing with an original ground razor it can be seen that
there has been done some work on the tang (under & above):


•
I have seen this kind of re-grinds on different razors, all from the 18th century!

•

Another special “George SMITH” – “cross G·SMITH”


I have seen this “extra G before SMITH” only once!

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SMITH, Georgius
‘G.SMITH’

(Update 2018, May)

(sharprazorpalace.com/razor-clubs/Stub-tailed shavers)
(“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774, Smith Georgius, Scotland(‘-street’))
(No mentioning in the “Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787,
neither in ‘Bailey’s Directory’, 1781)

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W

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Warburton, William – “LISBON”
(Not confirmed or contradicted)

 (“Acier Fondu”)
The spine has a very faintly etched “Wm. Warburton’s German Steel”
•
If this razor is from Sheffield, “Warburton William”
could very well be the father of “Warburton Thomas”, this razor
would then be made before 1774 since “Warburton William”
isn’t mentioned in the 1774 Sheffield directory
•
“Sketchley’s Sheffield Directory”, 1774

“Gales & Martin Sheffield directory”, 1787

•

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…

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(Update 2019, Feb)

“Unknown maker“

“Tomahawk 3” (“Acier Fondu”)
•

(“Acier Fondu”)
•

(“Acier Fondu”)
•
“(E)LLIOT”

(“Acier Fondu”)
•

•
(private collection) (“Dagger”)
•
••
 
•
 
•
(private collection)
As you can see, this “Dip-at-toe” is much more pronounced!

The tail is also longer!

Together with the more pronounced notch on top of the tang,
as seen on even older razors, I believe this razor is older then 1760
(maybe around 1700-1750)

•

(“Acier Fondu”)

This should contradict the statement, but for now, because their appearance
is clearly different then the others, I regard these “Dip-at-toe” razors as
“Ancient Dip-at-toe” razors, making a distinction between the
“Dip-at-toe” feature (1760-1790), and the older “Ancient Dip-at-toe” razors…
•

(Update 2019, Feb)

This “☩SHIP” razor, made by “William Saunderson” is made between 1736-1760,
most probably in the 1740’s (see “Saunderson William” in the article).
The “Dip-at-toe” is actually an “Ancient Dip-at-toe“.
•
The “Ancient Dip-at-toe” seem to have a more
downwards angle, as seen in next comparison:

Here are some other ancient ones:

(“Acier Fondu”)

The second razor most probably also is older than 1760 (1700-1750?).
Comparing this razor with the “William Saunderson”,
the latter most probably had a longer tail in the past!

The third razor seems to have a “normal” “Dip-at-toe“, but has a longer tail
which makes me think it is older then 1760… This razor, although without
knowing who made it, without knowing its age, and seeming to be older
then 1760, is a contradiction to the statement of “Henry T. Lummus”.
•
The first has the same kind of tang/tail as this razor:

(private collection) 

•
Or these ones:
    
(“Acier Fondu”)
•
These razors are much older then 1760
The 4 above could possibly be 1600s’ razors from the area of Germany (not sure)

•

Markings being present on the blade itself
seem to be a sign of very old age, like this one: or the 4 razors above, or:

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In conclusion, the statement that razors which such a “Dip-at-toe“ could be
made around “1760 – 1790“ seems to be confirmed in a sense that they would be
indeed older then 1790, but contradicted in a sense that razors with such a
“Dip-at-toe” could still be older then 1760. A longer tail, and a different type of tang
could possible be a marker to predict if such a razor is older then 1760 or not…

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Links and references:

sharprazorpalace.com/razor-clubs SRP, Razor clubs, “Dip-at-toe” Stubtails 18th century

ACIER FONDU A few centuries of Straight Razors, EARLY RAZORS “Acier Fondu”